We are so lucky here in the Pacific Northwest! We not only have thousands of miles of Puget Sound coastline to discover on our stand up paddleboards but we also have amazing camping and recreational destinations with rich history that serve as basecamp for our SUP adventures.
One of those perfect locations is Fort Flagler State Park on Marrowstone Island, east of Port Townsend. With the waters of the Salish Sea on three sides to paddle, well maintained campgrounds, 100-year old coastal artillery bunkers to explore, quick access to Port Townsend, abundant wildlife and some of the best views of Mount Rainier and Mount Baker, Fort Flagler is a great weekend escape or jumping-off point for a week-long getaway on the Olympic Peninsula.
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Let’s talk about the paddling opportunities first. Marrowstone Island sits at Admiralty Inlet which marks the narrow location where all the water (and shipping traffic) from the Strait of Juan de Fuca must pass as it heads to and from Seattle. This means strong current on the North and East sides of the park. There is also a lot of wind in this area. But the beauty of having water on three sides is you have a good chance of finding a paddle spot that is safe and out of the wind.
For beginners I recommend launching near the boat ramp and dock on the east side of the park into Kilisut Harbor. There is a small store there and plenty of parking. You can paddle around Rat Island and spot Harlequin ducks and gulls of every variety.
I saw one of the largest bald eagles I’d ever seen while paddling there and there are plenty of them to spot in the trees on adjacent Indian Island. DO NOT land on Indian Island though! It is is home of Navel Magazine Indian Island that happens to be a munitions supply base for the U.S. Navy. I haven’t tried it but I’m guessing they don’t take kindly to kooks on SUPs paddling up and saying, “Whuzzup, bro! I just wanted to see some missiles and bombs and stuff. Is that a problem?" For advanced paddlers you can make the trip across to Port Townsend for a beer or coffee (just under 4 miles roundtrip) or you can head all the way to Fort Worden (just under 7 miles roundtrip). I only recommend this for strong paddlers who have studied the current and weather forecast before heading out. Did I mention the strong wind and current? I’m serious, it’s nothing to mess around with if you don’t know what you’re doing. Safety first. |
One alternate paddle spot if the wind just won’t let up is Mystery Bay. You’ll pass tiny Mystery Bay State Park on the way to Fort Flagler and it’s a perfect little spot that is well protected. There are lots of old boats and great photo opportunities here. Both Mystery Bay and Fort Flagler are state parks and therefore require a Discover Pass to be displayed in your car while you are parked.
When you’ve finished your paddle trip there is so much to explore at the Fort. Stop by the museum first and pick up a map and some info. Check out the hospital and officer's quarters. Then walk the parade ground and enjoy spectacular views of Mount Rainier on a clear day. Then head north to check out the bunkers while also scoping out great views of Port Townsend, Mount Baker and the big cargo ships passing through Admiralty Inlet.
Watch your step while you are wandering around the bunkers. This ain’t no amusement park and there are no safety rails surrounding the massive concrete bunkers so pay attention and keep your kids close by. Back in the day, these bunkers housed massive artillery pieces designed to take out any enemy ships that may try to pass and reach Seattle. Minus the big guns, everything is as it was when it was built in the early 1900s and it’s fun to imagine what life was like for the men serving here.
Camping here is easy with full facilities and hook-ups for RVs as well as basic tent sites, with many spots in the lower campground just a few steps from the beach. Reserve your camping spot early online. You can make an online reservation up to 10 months in advance. Summer weekends get booked up early so don’t hesitate.
Let me tell you about two other spots you should visit on your way to or from Fort Flagler. One is the Nordland General Store. It has been around almost as long as the Fort and has groceries and all kinds of treats. I enjoyed a Whidbey Island Ice Cream Company ice cream bar and sat in the sun outside. It was a beautiful warm June day so I ended up wearing most of the chocolate as it melted faster than I ate it. Oops. But it was delicious. Also, I’m kind of a coffee nerd and will always mention the spot to get great coffee. After leaving the island head for Easy Times Espresso in Port Hadlock. It’s just a tiny drive-thru stand but they are one of the few drive-thrus that get coffee right. They serve Herkimer Coffee and it’s a delicious way to get yourself good and caffeinated for that drive home.
Fort Flagler has so much to offer and so much to take in. If you love to paddle, love history and love amazing views of Puget Sound you’ll love Fort Flagler.